Ryan's Bordeaux Blog

Having been charmed by the "Capucin" market just 100 m up the street from the old church in downtown Bordeaux on my little expedition the previous day, I decided that I'd return Saturday morning to do my grocery shopping there. By 8:00 am on Saturday morning I was surveying the local produce in the market, where for dirt cheap I was able to pick up: a duck leg, some chorizo sausages, 2 small fish, a variety of fresh fruit and vegetables, some herbs, 2 baguettes, and Roquefort and Manchego cheeses. Most people that know me well know that I love to cook, and so for me a good market is one of the best places for inspiration.

The rest of the day was then spent helping Nathanael with his roof - chisseling away the old mortar that seemed to be about 10 parts sand to 1 part cement, and redoing the job properly. This also included his chimney, which comprised the majority of our effort, with me standing on a higher level and lifting the big stone blocks off, helping him put the fresh mortar down, brushing the carbon off the blocks, and then putting the blocks back in place. All told it was about 11 hours spent on his roof, and I was happy to do it in return for the warm hospitality I was shown during my stay that week. Later that night, we went to meet his wife and 3 children at a local park overlooking the Garonne river where some fairly amateurish but still entertaining performers from Quebec put on a small show.

On Sunday I was up bright and early again, and hurriedly getting ready to be picked up from Nathanael's place by Thierry, as yesterday Thierry called to let Nathanael know that he was coming to pick me up so that I could attend a familly meeting. An amazing opportunity, and Thierry was true to his word, showing up at about 10:30 am with familly in tow. I learned soon after climbing aboard the van that it was his brother Denis' surprise birthday party and that he was bringing me so that I could meet some of his 10 brothers and sisters, as well as his parents. Destionation: Chateau Brane-Cantenac, a Grand Cru Chateau situation in the Margaux appellation that achieved 2nd growth status from the classification of 1855. We arrived at Chateau Brane-Cantenac after a drive in the country, and stepping out of the van with Thierry's daughter Ines clinging to me as usual, I was led inside the very classically decorated Chateau where I met Thierry's mother and father. Standing in the foyer admiring my surroundings I then met Thierry's sister Marie-Laure Lurton, who owns three Chateau: La Tour de Bessan, De Villegeorge, and Duplesis. I had some excellent conversation with Marie-Laure, and was very surprised to learn that she once did a "stage" in California working for Joseph Phelps vineyards in 1985. As an aside, Phelps' wines like Insignia are monsters and in stark contrast to the usually polished and elegant style of wine made in Bordeaux, so I found this fascinating. A Lurton at Joseph Phelps, imagine that! It wasn't long before I met up with Thierry in the tasting room, where the party was to be held. Since at that time there weren't many who'd arrived just yet, Thierry offered to take me on a small tour of Margaux and to have a look at the first growth property of Chateau Margaux - needless to say, I gladly accepted and we were off in the van once again. It was just 5 minutes to the beautiful Chateau Margaux, with the almost equally stunning Chateau Palmer practically next door.

When Thierry and I got back we found that most of the clan had assembled, and the party was started with a glass of 1996 Climens. Before lunch was served I was introduced to Henri Lurton who owns Chateau Brane-Cantenac, Gonzague Lurton who owns Chateau Durfort-Vivens (also a 2nd growth), and Sohpie Lurton who owns Chateau Bouscaut. During lunch I sat with Gonzague, Henri, and Thierry's mother and aunt, who were both very warm and took it upon themselves to make sure I was eating enough. I was introduced to Denis Lurton who owns Chateau Desmirail after he showed up about half way through the lunch, looking very surprised but not altogether thrilled. Lunch was served with a 2001 Bouscaut that was drinking very nicely, followed by 1959 Brane-Cantenac as it's a birthyear wine for Denis Lurton, who was turning 50, and the second oldest wine I've ever tasted. I also spoke with Thierry's father who was a very gracious host with excellent english, and at one time owned all of these chateau. After lunch was over it was a pleasure to talk with one of Maurie-Laure's daughters over a glass of Billecart-Salmon champagne, who's a medical student at the University of Bordeaux.

Having the chance to meet with this part of the Lurton family was incredible, and I hope to have more contact with them during the remainder of my time here.